This is an expensive oil based lube that is very thin and very dry. Like any wax based lubricant I’ve used you have to reapply before every ride. My only gripe is that I have experienced some rust on my chain using this lube, only very minor. These rides kill lubes and drive trains, even with Rock and Roll Extreme I’m starting to hear a bit of drive train noise at the end of a 3-5 hour mountain bike ride in extreme conditions. Some of our rides are very dry and dusty with frequent wet creek crossings. It has kept my drive train extremely clean. It’s the first wax based lube that I’ve run on a mountain bike that stays on even in wet. I would highly recommend this stuff in dry conditions as it runs very smooth and stays very dry. I’ve used it primarily for mountain bikes with very good results. This is an expensive wax based lubricant. If you ride in very clean conditions it will last for a while but you’re still going to get a dirty drive train.
It is a bit thinner and doesn’t seem to leave as much residue, but it still collects dirt. I picked thus up pretty cheap at a bike shop and found that it wasn’t much better than the Pedro’s Synlube. You might as well use 10W30 Pedro’s Road Rage I had to soak chain after every ride if I wanted it to be anywhere near clean. It may be biodegradeable, which is nice, but its not worth the hassle.
This was a cheap lube and it acted like it. It wasn’t any better on road bikes where I expect my lubes to stay cleaner. I used this primarily on mountain bikes where I could it collected dirt very badly in dry and wet conditions. Pedro’s Syn LubeĪ bio degradable synthetic lubricant that is very much oil based. Didn’t need as frequent re lubrication as others, but not as smooth running as others due to its very light nature. I used on both mountain and road, it didn’t pick up grime and the drivetrain stayed clean. It was very clean and yet lasted a long time. It acted very much like a mixture of both types. Boeshield T-9Įxpensive lube that seems to be a combination of wax and oil like lubricant. Over the years I’ve experimented with several lubes, I gathered up all the different ones I could find in the shop and thought I’d give them a brief review. Whatever lube you use, the most important thing is to read the directions and apply it correctly, often times you should wipe away almost all lube on the surface of the chain. I’ve even heard of mechanics putting pure grease on chains in extremely wet conditions. Dry conditions favor a dry lube and wet conditions a wet lube. Wet is like a typical lubricant in that its oil based and stays wet and sticky. Dry is usually wax based and as the name implies it dissipates leaving a coating on the chain. It comes in two main variety, dry and wet.
#CLEAN TRAX VS WHITE LIGHTNING FREE#
Is a friction free drive train important, sort of, and it sounds a lot nicer too. Is a clean drive train important? Not really, but it looks nice. I’ve noticed a trend in recent years on big group rides that people on 5000 dollar spotless bikes often have completely clean shiny drivetrains, I’ve also noticed these drivetrains squeak. OK, so maybe not the ultimate debate, but still pretty important. I really just wanted to show off this antique first aid cabinet I found in a demolished building.
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